
WTF are the fashion industry and Asia going to do with these tariffs?
The fast fashion industry—especially Chinese companies like Temu and Shein—is reeling from Trump's proposed costs
At the heart of this tariff-related nonsense are the fashion industry and Asian manufacturing.
Photo illustration by Ryan Quan
Words by Vandana Pawa
The tale of President Donald Trump’s tariffs began on inauguration day in January. It started small, with proposals of 25 percent tariffs on Canada and Mexico, soon extending to China, and eventually every country on the planet. Exact numbers have since increased and decreased, with retaliatory tariffs being put in place by other countries in response. As the back and forth continues, consumers and manufacturers are both left in the lurch to navigate the rapidly shifting landscape of trade, and at the heart of the confusion may be the fashion industry.
According to a report by The Budget Lab at Yale University in April, the Trump administration’s initially proposed tariffs across the board would disproportionately affect clothing and textiles specifically, and consumers can face up to 64 percent higher prices in the short run. In the long run, brands will likely make changes to substitute for cheaper alternatives in their manufacturing processes, but despite the quality of apparel actually going down, clothing prices will continue to stay high, never recovering from the initial price hikes.
While all clothing brands who manufacture products in China are at risk, fast fashion companies—those that seek to rapidly mass produce inexpensive and low-quality clothing in response to quick changing trend cycles—are at the top of mind for many. Over the last five years, Chinese companies Shein and Temu have quickly risen in the ranks of preferred online retailers in the United States. In February alone, the Shein app registered more than one million new downloads on iPhones and iPads, and Shein.com was the number one leading fashion e-commerce store in the United States in 2024. Amidst a laundry list of controversies that surround the site, including abhorrent labor practices, Shein is known for having some of the lowest prices across the globe, and a portion of what made such prices possible was the corporation’s reliance on a “de-minimis” tax exemption, a nearly century-old trade rule that had previously allowed companies in China to ship low-value goods directly to consumers in the United States without taxes.
Earlier this year, however, the Trump administration voided this exemption through an executive order, leading to an end of the process that allowed Chinese e-retailers to keep prices low. In response, Temu even stated that it would stop selling goods from China directly to U.S. customers. “All sales in the U.S. are now handled by locally based sellers, with orders fulfilled from within the country,” the brand said in a statement, "the move is designed to help local merchants reach more customers and grow their businesses.” Shein also raised prices of products considerably, with a survey by the Washington Post showing that prices across the site were increased by an average of 43 percent.
The quickly shifting and unpredictable nature of the Trump administration's policy-making has resulted in back and forth changes in tariff rules, with the latest being another rollback. After recent negotiations between the United States and China, the president has lowered the tariffs on low-value goods from 120 percent to 54 percent, and the United States will lower tariffs on imported Chinese goods from 145 percent to 30 percent, while China's retaliatory tariffs on U.S. goods will drop from 125 percent to 10 percent. Whether these numbers will stay as they are is yet to be seen.
Amidst the tit-for-tat, though, a wave of TikTok videos coming directly from Chinese manufacturers are suggesting that consumers can circumvent all of the political theater and go straight to the source, to buy directly from factories. Amidst the trade war, these videos appear to be counteroffensive against the Trump administration, presented digitally through one of the largest platforms for disseminating information to Americans today, and some may say it’s been working as the videos across many accounts quickly gained traction and have amassed millions of views.
For You Pages are getting flooded with factories claiming that they are the suppliers of major brands like Lululemon, Birkenstocks, and Brooks Brothers, and encouraging American consumers to buy directly from them, rather than the brands. Across all industries, from furniture to jewelry, sourcing experts on TikTok are sharing English language websites that would allow buyers to make these direct purchases.
But are these claims legitimate? Lululemon recently released a statement on Forbes stating they’re not. “Lululemon does not work with the manufacturers identified in the online videos and we urge consumers to be aware of potentially counterfeit products and misinformation,” a company spokesperson told Forbes. However, the brand provided a supplier list, which does include manufacturers located in China. European-based luxury brands, however, are far less transparent about their supply chain. French luxury conglomerate LVMH has a page titled “Suppliers” on its website, but information is minimal and unspecific. An outdated chart citing 2021 data shows the geographical breakdown of suppliers with three vague categories represented—Europe, North America and Asia. Asia is listed as hosting 17 percent of the company’s suppliers, but more specific information is not directly available.
To some consumers, especially those interested in luxury fashion brands, the idea of purchasing directly from Chinese manufacturers isn’t new at all. Online marketplaces like DHGate, which was founded in the early 2000s, have been connecting buyers globally to factories in China that are producing products across all sectors, from electronics to designer dupes and replicas. Previously, the website wasn’t very popular in the United States, operating under an “if you know, you know” mentality. But in April, amidst the virality of Chinese factory-tok, the DHGate app skyrocketed in popularity and became the second most downloaded app in the Apple App store, behind OpenAI’s ChatGPT. A dedicated community of users and consumers on Reddit are already working together to navigate new territory on DHGate as some sellers move to increase their prices in preparation for tariffs.
As clothing gets more expensive across the United States, experts are also expecting an uptick in resale and secondhand purchases amidst the uncertainty. According to online thrift and consignment store ThredUp’s 2025 Resale Market and Consumer Trend Report, the global secondhand apparel market is growing 2.7 times faster than the overall global apparel market, and is expected to reach $367 billion by 2029—and tariffs are playing a significant role. Of the 3,034 American adults surveyed, 59 percent say that they will seek out secondhand clothing if government policies around tariffs and trade make apparel more expensive. The shift isn’t exclusive to consumers, as 54 percent of retail executives also believe that the resale market actually offers a more stable source of clothing amidst trade policy fluctuations. As the unpredictability in tariffs continues, the eventual outcome in consumer behaviors may actually be the one that benefits sustainability goals the most.
Published on June 3, 2025
Words by Vandana Pawa
Art by Ryan Quan
Ryan Quan is the Social Media Editor for JoySauce. This queer, half-Chinese, half-Filipino writer and graphic designer loves everything related to music, creative nonfiction, and art. Based in Brooklyn, he spends most of his time dancing to hyperpop and accidentally falling asleep on the subway. Follow him on Instagram at @ryanquans.