Chef Tue Nguyen eats pho and other food wearing a white dress shirt and black jacket.

Chef Tue Nguyen defines authenticity for herself and no one else

The Internet chef known as twaydabae recently released her debut cookbook Di An, a celebration of Vietnamese cuisine and her journey on her own terms

Chef Tue Nguyen

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Two years ago, a Buzzfeed Tasty video popped up on my YouTube feed titled “I Made a Giant 12-Pound Soup Dumpling,” hosted by chef Tue Nguyen, known to many as twaydabae. After watching the video, I quickly fell down a rabbit hole, captivated by her engaging videos showcasing everything from giant Pocky to a four-foot bánh mì. The defining lodestar was Nguyen, who you just had the inkling would have a meteoric rise. 

Just like those colossal dishes, she has become a giant in her own right. Following her success at Tasty, Nguyen has amassed more than 470,000 followers on Instagram and achieved a massive 15.6 million likes on TikTok. Now she's taking her viral recipes offline with the recent release of her debut cookbook, Di An: The Salty, Sour, Sweet and Spicy Flavors of Vietnamese Cooking with TwayDaBae. The work is a collection and reflection of her vibrant journey from online star to leading chef of West Hollywood hotspot ĐiĐi, which she opened just about a year ago with the support of hospitality heavyweights, the h.wood Group.

Nguyen spoke with JoySauce about her inspirations behind Di An, how she’s grown since opening ĐiĐi and what authenticity means to her.

This interview has been edited for length and clarity.

Daniel Anderson: What inspired the Di An cookbook and how long has it been in development?
Tue Nguyen: When I first got approached to write a cookbook, I thought, “I've always wanted to,” but I wasn’t sure about what. Over two years, the cookbook kind of wrote itself because I was hosting pop-ups and developing recipes for my videos. As I kept writing, I realized this would be perfect for someone like my little sister, who doesn’t cook. She barely makes ramen or rice, so I thought, “This is the perfect beginner-friendly cookbook for her, with flavors we grew up eating—dishes our mom made for us.”

Now that she doesn’t live at home, I feel like this is a way for her to have that taste of home. When I first moved out, I missed being able to grab something from the fridge, heat it up, and eat it with rice. So, I thought it’d be cool to have a guide on how to recreate those dishes. It took almost three years to finalize, but the inspiration was really my little sister.

DA: How did you decide which recipes to include? There’s the chef side of you with restaurant dishes, but also the ones people know from TikTok and YouTube. How did you strike that balance in curating what to share?
TN: It’s divided into categories. There is a section for classic Vietnamese dishes, but then there's an "Internet Famous" section with viral recipes that people have recreated—now in print, with pictures. Another section, "IRL," features favorites from my pop-ups, and since I'm a soup girl (I feel like all girls love soup), I had to include a soup section, along with desserts. I really wanted to encapsulate this time in my life, balancing my reach through social media and the journey of discovering my cooking style through pop-ups.

 

 

DA: I’m a huge soup person, breakfast, lunch, dinner, it doesn’t matter.
TN: When I took my friends over to Vietnam, we had pho for breakfast, and by the end of the trip, they're like, “I'm tired of pho for breakfast.” But, how am I supposed to fuel my body with two sausages and five pancakes? 

DA: You're experienced in sharing recipes online, but how did putting them into a cookbook format challenge you?
TN: This is my first cookbook, so I had no idea how to write one. My co-writer, Jenn de la Vega, helped by testing recipes and asking questions like, "How much is a pinch?" I wasn’t used to being that precise. I'm like, “a pinch is a pinch, what do you mean?” But she reminded me that everyone's pinches are different, so I needed to be clear for people to recreate the dishes. That part was tedious because, as chefs, I get recipes from my chef friends and they often don’t include instructions—just ingredients and amounts. Having to explain everything in detail was the biggest challenge.

DA: Did any cookbooks inspire you or guide you in the development of your own?
TN: I really loved I Am a Filipino by Miguel Trinidad and Nicole Ponseca, Joshua Wiseman's first cookbook, Texture Over Taste, and Anthony Bourdain's Appetites. I took inspiration from all three, especially their stories, layout, and ease of use. Anthony Bourdain will always be an inspiration for me. I used his cookbook as a guide to channel my own voice because he was so authentically himself, and I wanted to find that in my writing. 

DA: I have one of Bourdain’s cookbooks too. I like it because it’s geared towards solo home cooking.
TN: That was his last book before he passed. He had another cookbook where he really dove into things like making stocks and doing more cheffy stuff—I love that one. The pictures in it stand out, too. When you open it, the first thing you see is a picture of trash, which I love. Most cookbooks are so pristine, but that was his style—who cares if it's not perfect? He literally published a picture of trash, and I loved it. 

DA: Anytime the Travel Channel has reruns of No Reservations and I hear his voice, I feel emotional.
TN: When I first came to America, it really was the one show where I saw Vietnam on screen not depicted through the lens of war or as a third-world country. Instead, it showcased the culture, the people, and the food, which I loved. It comforted me during a huge transition in my life when I didn’t know any English and struggled to make friends. I watched a lot of TV, and that show became a source of comfort for me. I really love him for that. 

DA: Bourdain’s photo with president Obama in Vietnam eating pho became one of the most liked on Twitter. It went viral.
TN: What's crazy is that the place they visited in Hanoi has the stools and table they sat at encased.

DA: Shifting gears now, I want to talk about your restaurant ĐiĐi. What have you learned about yourself in your chef role? Can you describe your evolution now that ĐiĐi is out in the world and you’re at the restaurant cooking?
TN: ĐiĐi was such an unexpected opportunity. I always remind myself that if an opportunity presents itself, it means you're ready for it. I embraced the chance, learned from it, and now, reflecting on a year with ĐiĐi in L.A., I’m amazed at the journey. I've learned so much about my leadership style and how to build a cohesive team. I’ve always seen myself as a natural leader, but running a restaurant challenged that perception. Working with my older sous chefs and cooks made me feel awkward about leading, especially given the respect for elders in Vietnamese culture. I had to remind myself of my position, step up, and embrace the challenge, even when it felt unnatural.

DA: To borrow a concept from The Bear, can you describe your non-negotiables or core tenets of leadership?
TN: I believe non-negotiables are about listening—truly listening to what people are saying—and communicating in a way that makes them feel heard. It’s a balance, much like in any relationship. Listening and communication are the top two elements where people are more willing to listen to you if you take the time to hear them out. There can be a lot of egos in the kitchen, with the mentality of “whatever I say goes.” I didn't want to lead my team that way, especially since this is my first time in this role. I aimed to learn from one another rather than dictate. It's essential to understand how each person prefers to work and communicate. Some cooks respond well to direct orders, while others may be more sensitive, so I had to navigate their different communication styles.

DA: Empathy wasn’t necessarily part of the discussion a decade ago in the industry. Now, you're able to lead your kitchen in a more empathetic way, being mindful of the entire team and their mental health, which contrasts with the classic stereotypes of the angry chef.
TN: At the beginning of ĐiĐi, an old-school chef from the H.wood team came in to lead. He was very blunt and embodied the classic chef mentality. During service, it was chaotic, with everyone yelling at each other, and I realized I couldn't operate that way. Whenever I’m running the line, my cooks get excited and say, "Chef, you're running the line today!" They appreciate that I won't throw a plate in their face.

DA: Generally speaking, what does your schedule look like at the restaurant?
TN: I have a lot of sh*t to do every day. Beyond the restaurant, I also create content—not just for ĐiĐi, but for myself as well. I need to keep feeding the algorithm and my followers with original recipe videos. Mornings are dedicated to filming, either at home or at the restaurant. In the evenings, I’m at ĐiĐi until around eight or nine, or longer if there's a large party that needs my attention.

In the early days of ĐiĐi, I was on the line about four days a week. Now that we've been open for a year, I have confidence in my cooks. They’ve honed their skills making the same Vietnamese dishes repeatedly, allowing me to ease off a bit. Now, I’ll stay until lineup and then say, "Okay, guys, good luck!" Of course, I’m still there for special events and occasions.

DA: Traditionally, chefs train, open a restaurant, and then gain media notoriety, often through platforms like YouTube. You've approached it in the reverse order. Given your experience as a content creator, what unique skills or advantages do you think this provided you when opening your restaurant?
TN: I believe my experience has equipped me with strong marketing skills. Many chefs can be quite rigid, focusing solely on cooking without understanding how to effectively market their business or promote specials. I approached this with the mentality that I know how to create relatable content that attracts people and encourages them to visit. So, it’s really about the marketing aspect rather than anything directly related to the kitchen.

DA: You’re no stranger to managing online comments. Do you think this experience made you more comfortable handling Yelp reviews and similar feedback?
TN: I see it as somewhat of a disadvantage because many comments and reviews come from people who haven’t even visited ĐiĐi. They might just dislike me for whatever reason and leave negative reviews claiming a bad experience. I try to take those with a grain of salt, but I genuinely appreciate constructive feedback.

I often reach out to those who leave critical reviews, asking how I can improve their experience. For example, I’ve DMed individuals who commented about their bad experiences, apologizing and inviting them back for a complimentary meal. Many have returned and enjoyed their time. I want to listen to those who had a negative experience and are open to giving ĐiĐi a second chance, rather than those who are just being hateful.

DA: I recall very early on in ĐiĐi’s launch, you had to post a video defending the menu prices and dismantling this notion that Vietnamese cuisine couldn’t be elevated to fine dining. Have you seen a shift in mindset from customers since ĐiĐi has been around for a year?
TN: I believe it’s a gradual process, and I’ve come to accept that I can’t force people to change their minds. If my restaurant isn’t considered authentic to them, there’s nothing I can do about it. Authenticity is subjective; what feels authentic to me may not resonate with someone else. My experience is unique—having spent half my life in Vietnam and the other half here. Therefore, I can’t present what’s authentic to me and expect it to align with everyone else’s perception of authenticity.

DA: As we are in education season, what is one technique you wish everyone knew for Vietnamese cuisine in particular?
TN: Braising is easier than you think. It is so simple. You dump everything in the pot, you let it ride, you let it cook, and then you open your pot to the most delicious braise ever. I feel like the word braising kind of sounds a little bit intimidating, and it sounds like a technique that old people have mastered. It's easier than you think.

DA: And lastly, any future goals for you? Maybe some TV appearances or cooking competitions?
TN: I’m really focused on the restaurant. I have my new donut collaboration with Holey Grail, which features a pandan donut I’m obsessed with—pandan is a key ingredient in many of my dessert recipes. Additionally, I’m taking a trip to Vietnam in December with around 70 people, and there’s still room if you want to join! Long-term, I aim to open a business in Vietnam to provide good-paying jobs for my family. In Vietnam, even with a solid education, finding a well-paying job can be tough without connections, and my family lacks that. If I can create opportunities for them, I would love to do so.

Published on October 15, 2024

Words by Daniel Anderson

Daniel Anderson is a disabled Chinese American adoptee based in Seattle. His freelance writing specialties include K-pop, entertainment, and food. He believes that any restaurant can be a buffet, and the key to success is to take a nap each day. Follow his adventures on Instagram @danzstan.